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How to curl short hair with a curling iron

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Short answer

Use a small barrel, usually 1/2 to 1 inch, so short hair can wrap around it at least once or twice. Work in small vertical sections, start an inch or so from the scalp, and curl away from your face. Hold for only a few seconds, leave the ends slightly out for a modern finish, and let each curl cool before you break it up.

Tools for this job

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Back view of a woman styling her short hair while looking in the mirror
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Short hair can curl well, but it does not forgive the wrong tool. A big barrel just bends the ends, and working close to the scalp with a hot iron takes care. This page is for bobs, lobs, chin length cuts and longer pixies. It covers barrel size, section size and direction, how to handle the iron near your ears and neck, and how to keep the result from looking dated or too tight. If you want straight styles instead, see how to flat iron short hair.

Pick the right barrel size for short hair

The key rule is that hair should wrap around the barrel about two times for a defined curl. Short hair simply does not have the length to wrap around a large barrel. For hair at chin length or above, most people do best with a 1/2 to 1 inch barrel. A 3/4 inch barrel suits a curly bob; a 1 inch barrel gives a looser bend on a longer bob. The barrel size picker caps its suggestion at 1 inch for short hair for this reason.

A slim flat iron is another option for short hair, since it can bend or wave a few inches of hair without wrapping. See how to curl hair with a flat iron for that method.

  • 3/8 in10 mmRinglets
  • 1/2 in13 mmTight
  • 3/4 in19 mmTight
  • 1 in25 mmClassic
  • 1 1/4 in32 mmLoose
  • 1 1/2 in38 mmWaves
  • 2 in51 mmVolume
Common barrel sizes at true relative scale, with mm and the curl each usually makes. Smaller barrels make tighter curls.

  • Long pixie, 2 to 4 inches

    Barrel
    1/2 inch
    Result
    Texture and small bends

  • Ear to chin bob

    Barrel
    1/2 to 3/4 inch
    Result
    Defined curls

  • Chin to jaw bob

    Barrel
    3/4 to 1 inch
    Result
    Classic curls

  • Long bob, near shoulders

    Barrel
    1 inch
    Result
    Soft curls and waves
Barrel size by short hair length (typical)

Prep and temperature

Start with clean, completely dry hair. Product buildup and damp hair both work against you, and short hair is often styled every day, so it can collect residue faster. Apply a heat protectant and comb it through.

If your iron has a dial, start at the low end for your hair type and go up only if the curl does not hold. Typical maker ranges are about 250 to 300°F (121 to 149°C) for fine or color treated hair, 300 to 380°F (149 to 193°C) for normal hair and 380 to 450°F (193 to 232°C) for thick or coarse hair. Short sections heat through quickly, so you rarely need the top of the range. Fixed temperature tools such as ghd's run at 365°F (185°C), and you adjust with hold time instead.

Step by step: curling short hair

  1. 1

    Clip the top layer up and start at the nape. These pieces are shortest, so be patient.

  2. 2

    Take a small vertical section, about 1 inch wide. Vertical sections give a looser, modern shape; horizontal sections give rounder, more retro curls.

  3. 3

    Hold the iron vertically, tip down. Clamp or wrap starting an inch or so from the scalp, not right at the root.

  4. 4

    Turn the barrel away from your face and wrap toward the ends. On short hair, one to one and a half turns is often all you get, and that is fine.

  5. 5

    Hold for about 3 to 8 seconds. Short sections heat fast.

  6. 6

    Release and let the curl drop. Do not pull on it while it is warm.

  7. 7

    Work up the sides and back, then do the top. Curl the front pieces away from the face.

  8. 8

    When everything is cool, run your fingers through to break the curls up.

Note.Near the ears, neck and forehead, keep the barrel pointing away from your skin and use the glove if your iron came with one. Short hair puts the hot barrel close to the scalp, so go slowly.

Avoiding the most common short hair mistakes

Most short hair curling problems come from the same few habits. Fixing them usually matters more than buying a new tool.

  • Barrel too big: the hair only bends at the ends. Drop to a smaller barrel.
  • Sections too thick: the outside curls and the inside stays straight. Take thinner pieces.
  • Curling the ends tightly: this can look dated on a bob. Leave the last half inch out of the clamp or off the wand.
  • Every section the same direction: the curls merge into one roll. Alternate direction toward the back.
  • Touching too soon: warm curls drop. Let them cool first.

Clamp iron or wand for short hair

A clamp iron is usually easier on short hair because the clamp holds the ends while you turn it. A thin wand works too and leaves no crease, but you have to hold the short ends against the barrel with the glove, which is fiddly near the scalp. Interchangeable sets like the Bio Ionic Twist, which its listing says includes a 0.5 inch wand, a 1 inch tapered wand and a 1.25 inch clip barrel, let you try both shapes with one handle.

For tools sized for short hair, see the best curling irons for short hair. If you are torn between shapes, our curling iron types page explains spring, Marcel, clipless and tapered barrels.

Curling irons for short hair →

Making short curls last

Short curls carry less weight, so they often hold better than long curls once they are set. Still, cooling is the step that locks in shape. You can pin each curl flat against the head while it cools if your hair is slippery. A light texture spray or flexible hairspray applied after the curls cool helps them hold without stiffness. If curls still drop, see curls falling out.

Frequently asked questions

What size curling iron is best for short hair? Most short hair curls best with a 1/2 to 1 inch barrel. Pixies and ear length cuts lean to 1/2 inch; chin length bobs suit 3/4 to 1 inch.

Can you use a curling wand on short hair? Yes, if the barrel is slim enough for the hair to wrap around it. Use the glove, start a little away from the scalp and leave the ends out for a softer finish.

How do you curl short hair without it looking too curly? Use vertical sections, alternate direction, leave the last half inch out and break the curls up with your fingers once they cool.

Should I curl short hair wet or dry? Dry. Curling irons and wands are designed for dry hair, and damp hair will not hold a heat set curl well.

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